THE WOBBLE BUG(s)…WITH SBS…DONE

Back in the day, in Chuck Fothergill’s Fly Shop, in Aspen, CO, I came across a woven fly pattern called the La Fonte Wobble-Rite. It was awhile before I actually employed this Caddis Pupa pattern for moving and still waters. Why did I wait so long…? In tying this pattern, one secures the lead or non lead substitute parallel to the hook shank. That, enables the pattern to seductively “wobble” as it moves through the water…what follows are some variations, on that original fly, with updated materials. The recipe for the original pattern may be found in Solomon and Leiser’s “The Caddis and the Angler” ppgs. #.84 -#.88…try some, they will not disappoint…Here (below) is the SBS for the DB AMBER WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPA…All of the other WOBBLE-RITES start with the same lashing approach…

Michael…gearing up today, to hit an Eastern river tomorrow, with some of the bugs his sister hand delivered to him a couple of weeks ago…

Cold day on the river for MOO…(4.25.2015)…

KG’s SPRING CREEK SCUD -Wobble Style – Glissmeyer/Variant …

HOOK: Umpqua (Hanak) C550BL, #12- #14, TMC 2499 SPBL, #12 – #16. TMC 2488H, #12 – #16

THREAD: UTC 70 Denier, Olive Green – Abdomen / Veevus 16/0, Olive – Head

WEIGHT: Lead or non-lead sub., approximate diameter of shank, lashed to sides, flattened and coated with Zap-A-Gap

RIB: SulkySilver Metallic 8040 Opalescent

BACK/CARAPACE: Clear Stretch-Flex, 1/8″

BODY: Arizona Simi-Seal, #.12, Olive – in a dubbing loop, picked out with a bodkin and brushed wit a bore brush- cut jut below hook point

Kelly G’s scud pattern in the 1.0 version. He just informed me that a 2.0 version is in the works and because these guys just plain slam, I will be adding that to my arsenal as soon as he lets me see it. Scuds, when they are resting are curled…when they move, in short bursts up to six inches, are straight…tie accordingly

The above scud is for use in this lake…in the early AM or at dusk, around, in and over the weed beds…

Materials KG’s SPRING CREEK SCUD -Wobble Style…

KG’s SPRING CREEK SCUDS -Wobble Style…

—————————————————————————————————————————————–

A “BOMBPROOF” SBS…

Materials DB AMBER WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPA…

#1...Place Diamond Bead on the hook and insert in vise. Take ten wraps and do the first of a lot of half-hitches that will keep this guy trucking’…

#2… Place a strip of lead on the near side of the shank, wrap forward and back to the tie in point and half-hitch…

#3…Place the second strip of lead on the  far side of the shank, even with the first, and wrap down into the bend. Use fingernails to keep the lead in position, parallel to the shank…

#4… Half-hitch the thread at the bend, flatten the lead parallel to the hook shank with non-serrated pliers, twist or nip off the excess lead and cover the rear with a few wraps of thread. Half-hitch…

#5…Run the thread up to the front of the lead then back to the bend to cover any frays…

#6…Coat the thread wraps with Zap-A-Gap – Keep it away from the bead and let it dry !

#7…Cut a thin strip of thin skin and taper the end to a point…

#8…Cut the D-Rib at an angle ( to reduce bulk)…

#9…Attach the thin skin at the bend with three tight wraps of thread and half-hitch…

#10...Attach the D-Rib at the bend, flat side down, with three tight thread wraps and half-hitch.Bring the Fl.White thread forward and half-hitch. Tie in the Tiemco 16/0, Dark Brown thread at the front of the lead base. Keep in mind that Caddis Pupa are chubby at the stern and skinny-er at the thorax…

#11…Bring the thin skin over the top of the shank, add two soft wraps and pull forward to tighten. Then, add two more tight wraps of thread and half-hitch…

#12…Wrap the D-Rib up the hook shank in tight turns, secure with 5 wraps of thread and cut the excess…

#13...Cover the thread wraps with a thinly dubbed thread of SLF Spikey Squirrel dubbing. Half-hitch twice, just in front of the dubbing. Push the Diamond Bead back into the dubbing, bring the thread forward and add two more half-hitches tight against the bead while pushing back with the Stonfo half-hitch tool (below).Add a few wraps of thread over the shank towards the hook eye, the back to the bead. Half-hitch again at the bead and add a touch of Hard-As-Hull to all that thread (Those wraps on the hook shank will assist in preventing  the V-Notched partridge from spinning in the next step! ) I use a number of different half-hitch tools for tying. The Stonfo half-hitch tool (more below) really comes in handy for locking beads in, when utilized at the thorax position

#14… V-Notch a Brown Partridge feather…

#15…Place the Partridge feather over the top of the hook shank and lock in place with two soft wraps of thread. Adjust the fibers with your fingernails then add two tight wraps, cut the excess feather protruding over the eye of the hook, add two more tight wraps and half-hitch with the Stonfo hitch tool…

Stonfo Half Hitch Tool…

#16… Tie in Brown Ostrich Herl with the fibers pointing to the rear of the hook shank. Clip excess and half-hitch. Then, wrap the herl forward using 5-7 turns. ( I use there hackle pliers to hold the end of the herl:

…and place my right hand thumbnail just behind the eye of the hook when wrapping) With my left hand, I take the tying three out of the bobbin cradle and bring the thread behind the hanging herl then over the hook shank with two tight wraps. Remove thumbnail and add two additional tight wraps….clip the excess herl and add a half-hitch with the Stonfo hitch tool. Whip finish and add a drop of Hard-As-Hull

#17… Go fish…

DB AMBER WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPAE, #14’s…

DB AMBER WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPA – Daiichi 1250, #12 – #16…

“But, why the DIAMOND BEAD?”

AMBER CADDIS might be found in here…

Here are the DB’s…it’s in there (subtle not pronounced)…

DB AMBER WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPA – Top…

TAN WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPA…

HOOK: Daiichi 1130, #12 -#18

THREAD: UTC 70 Denier, Fl. White – Under Abdomen / Tiemco 16/0, Dark Brown – Thorax forward

WEIGHT: Lead or non-lead sub., approximate diameter of shank, lashed to sides, flattened and coated with Zap-A-Gap

OVER ABDOMEN: Tan D-Rib, Small or Medium depending on hook size

BACK/CARAPACE: Thin strip of Medallion Sheeting, Buggy Brown

WINGLETS: Brown Partridge ( lower back on the skin) – V-Notched

THORAX: Iridescent Peacock, Brown – Spirit River

A Tan Pupa using the same method. For the smallest size, as in #18, use Micro Tubing and a lot of patience…

Materials TAN WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPA…

TAN WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPAE…

CHARTREUSE WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPA…

HOOK: Hanak C300BL Hook, #12- #14

THREAD: UTC 70 Denier, Fl. White – Under Abdomen / Tiemco 16/0, Olive or Black – Thorax forward

WEIGHT:  Lead or non-lead sub., approximate diameter of shank, lashed to sides, flattened and coated with Zap-A-Gap

OVER ABDOMEN: Glitter D-Rib, Medium Chartreuse

BACK/CARAPACE: strip of Tin Skin, Mottled Bustard Natural

WINGLETS: Olive Partridge, V-Notched

THORAX: Ostrich Herl, Black

This is an attractor Rhyacophila imitation. I really like the color Chartreuse, which on some occasions, will out fish a green or olive pattern. Changing the color, one could imitate various net spinning Caddis Pupa…Don’t be opposed to using different colors of thread as an under abdomen base in conjunction with D-Rib or Micro Tubing. Find the color, vibrance and hue that meets the requirements of the bugs and conditions in which the pattern is to be used. I do this a lot with Barr’s Graphic Caddis and the results are worth the effort…

Materials CHARTREUSE WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPA…

CHARTREUSE WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPA – Top view…

CHARTREUSE WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPA – Bottom view…

CHARTREUSE WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS …

Yep…in that chop on the left…

WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPA (Olive)- La Fonte/Variant…

HOOK: Daiichi 1560, #10-#18

THREAD: UTC 70 Denier, FL. White – Underabdomen / Tiemco 16/0, Dark Brown – Thorax forward

WEIGHT: Lead or non-lead sub., approximate diameter of shank, lashed to sides, flattened and coated with Zap-A-Gap

OVER ABDOMEN: D-Rib, Small, Olive ( for larger sizes, use Medium)

BACK/CARAPACE: Thin strip of Medallion Sheeting, Mottled Brown

THORAX: SLF Spikey Squirrel dubbing, Dark Brown

HACKLE: #2 Metz Hen Neck, Furnace

I prefer straight hook for this pattern for use in still water. For tailwaters and freestone rivers and streams, I would tie this pattern on curved, slow curve, or keel hooks…

Materials WOBBLE-RITE CADDIS PUPA (Olive)…

PVR … where this pattern literally banged the biggies…

WOBBLE-RITE…Top view…

WOBBLE-RITE…Bottom view…

WOBBLE-RITE(s)…

NEXT: Drunella flavilienea

PT/TB

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GET DOWN ON IT…

Kinda’ laid up passing a (non-wonderful)  kidney stone…so I make do with what I have at hand, pushing through – in the moments, when I am not on the floor writhing in PAIN…
These are two versions of Greg Vinci’s X-Ray Caddis, one in Olive and one in Amber…which I hope to use as soon as this adventure passes…PUN INTENDED:

AMBER AND OLIVE X-RAY CADDIS:

MATERIALS FOR AMBER X-RAY CADDIS:

AMBER X-RAY CADDIS – SIDE VIEW

HOOK: TMC 2302 #14 – #16, TFS 2305 # 14- #18

THREAD: Gordon Griffiths 14/0 Sheer Brown/ Amber, Olive/ Olive

UNDERBODY: Rusty Brown Krystal Flash – 3 strands/ Amber, Green Holo Flashabou – 1 strand/ Olive

OVERBODY: Amber, medium D-Rib/ Amber, Olive, medium D-Rib/ Olive

BACK: Pulled over, Brown Zelon,/ Amber, Olive-Brown Zelon/ Olive

WING: Brown Partridge. notched

THORAX: Brown Ostrich/ Amber, Black Ostrich/ Olive

BEADS: for # 16, 7/64 Black, 5/64 Copper (amber), 5/64 Gold (olive)…and so on, 2x larger than front bead and inverted

*NOTE: Greg suggested the following to me on 5.31.2011*

“Your version of the X-Ray Caddis looks great. You might also mention (you might not already be aware of this) that Z-Lon over body (I use partridge) should be covered with a layer of either 5 min epoxy or No Knot Sense. It really makes a difference in how the fly looks.”

Greg

AMBER X-RAY CADDIS – BOTTOM VIEW

OLIVE X-RAY CADDIS – SIDE VIEW

OLIVE X-RAY CADDIS – BOTTOM VIEW
I would like to be trying that Olive one out right here today…Owens River, below 5 Bridges…

Or that Amber one in here, on the Madison River, this evening…

Anyway…”J.T” Taylor, I think,  has the right idea…

PT/TB

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SEARCHING PATTERNS (ATTRACTORS)…

These are some attractor patterns that I use. When no Trout are rising, when the water is off-color, when it (or I ) is/am very cold, I pull these guys out of my boxes and affix them to my tippet…

KERN RIVER EMERGER (KRE) Variation

HOOK: TMC 5262, # 10- # 18, (or similar hook)

WEIGHT: Non toxic lead substitute

BEAD: Gold , Copper or Black Tungsten

THREAD: UNI 8/0 or Gordon Griffiths 14/0, Black

TAIL: Pheasant Tail Fibers, quantity dependent on hook size

RIB: Gold or Silver Tinsel

ABDOMEN: Peacock Herl

WINGCASE: Razor Foam 2mm., Red, Orange, Green, Yellow, Pink or Black

THORAX: Olive/Brown Ice Dub ( Pink Ice Dub…yessss)

LEGS: Optional, rubber, variegated

A pattern developed by Guy Jeans for the Kern River in the Southern Sierra Nevada Mountains. It imitates Stone flies and some May fly species that inhabit that sometimes brawling freestone fishery. I have found this pattern to be effective throughout the Western US. I have caught many nice Trout on the East Walker River fishing this fly with a pink wing case in May…This is a good one for swift pools, behind and alongside boulders and through tail outs – fished deep…

Guy Jean’s famous Kern Emerger pattern

Hook: TMC 5262 # 10 -18

Thread: Uni 6/0 or 8/0

Tail: Black Hen feathers

Rib: Gold tinsel, ( I use XSM gold wire for # 18 )

Abdomen: Peacock herl

Wingcase: Razor foam, pick yer’ color!

Legs: Here ,black Raineys rubber,but one could experiment!

Thorax: Peacock Ice Dub,Peacock Herl, SLF Prism Peacock or Arizona Peacock dubbing

Bead: Tung with lots of lead or non toxic sub. on thorax

Check out the Kern River Forum. Those guys up there use this fly throughout the year with great success. Guy Jean opened up his shop in Kernville several years ago and is a champ when it comes to doing good things for the Kern River and other local waters. Drop in and see him!

Here is another version that is beadless:

BEADLESS KRE

TURKEY VAC (OLIVE)

TURKEY VAC (TAN/BROWN)

HOOK: Mustad CO68, TMC 2457, Daiichi 1120, # 12- #18

THREAD: Gordon Griffiths, 14/0, Black, Brown or Olive

BEAD: Gold, Copper or Black

WIRE: Chart. for Olive, Red for Tan/Brown

ABDOMEN: Olive Mottled Turkey Tan/ Brown Mottled Turkey

WING: Sparkle Emerger Yarn, White/Clear or White Zelon

THORAX: Peacock Herl or Peacock Ice Dub

A Walter Wiese pattern out of Park’s Fly Shop in Gardiner, MT where Walter guides. This pattern was developed as an improved Shop Vac to imitate emerging Caddis Pupa.The original Shop Vac came out of BRF in West Yellowstone, MT. These flies will take Trout when offered at the proper time to imitate both Hydropsyche and Braychycetrus…I have found these patterns to be very effective and employ them everywhere…

THE ORIGINAL SHOP VAC

Hook: TMC 2457,2487 or Diiachi 1120, 1130 # 16-20

Thread: Danville # 47, 6/0

Wire: Gold, xsm

Wing: Strand of White Zelon, clipped

Thread at head: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0 Black

Bead: Tung or Metal, Gold

The original- fish vaccum via BRF, Craig Matthews and designer Rowan Nymen. I also tweak this simple pattern with 3 strands of midge pearl flash under the wing and I tie it using UTC 70 Olive for the body. Faux Shop Vac here.

HULA PRINCESS

HOOK: TMC 2457, Mustad CO68 or other Scud hook, # 12 – # 18

THREAD: UNI 6/0, 8/0, or Gordon Griffiths 14/0, Dark Brown

ABDOMEN: Peacock Herl

RIB: Fine Gold or Copper wire

WING: White Zelon

THORAX: Brown Ostrich Herl

BEAD: Gold or Copper

Another Wiese fly pattern. Peacock Herl is one most effective material to incorporate into a searching fly. Weight may be added via a tungsten bead or non toxic wire wraps under the thorax. I have found that fish will take this guy fished dead drift or swung…the Zelon wing acts as a trigger…

LEFT OVER KLINK

Hook: Partridge 15BN, #16-20

Thread: Gordon Griffiths 14/0, or Benechi 12/0 brown, olive or black

Tail: brown, olive or black hen neck

Abdomen: Wapsi UTC 70, brown, olive-brown, rusty- brown, olive or black / covered with clear micro tubing or color desired.

Rib: Wapsi x-sm gold, copper or silver

Thorax: (Behind a copper, gold or silver bead) olive brown, UV black or peacock Ice Dub

Wing/legs: brown, olive or black hen neck

So I have these remaining Klinkhammer hooks and what to do? I like it better in the available small sizes than the TMC 200R – superior gape. The fish seem to like it ( think Flav, Mahogany etc…) Rust bites back on the Stillwater!

And, here are two more in different color combinations…this pattern is one of my favorites..,

OLIVE / BROWN LEFT OVER KLINK

OLIVE LEFT OVER KLINK

JEREMY’S ARIZONA PRINCE

HOOK: TMC 2457, Daiichi 1120, Mustad CO68, # 10 -# 18

THREAD: Uni. Olive, 8/0 or Gordon Griffiths 14/0 Olive

BEAD: Copper, Gold or Black

TAILS: Brown Goose Biots

RIB: Gold or Copper wire

BODY: Light Arizona Peacock Dubbing

THORAX: Natural Peacock Arizona Dubbing

WINGS: White Goose Biots

A Jeremy Davies designed fly. ANYTHING that he designs catches Trout. This is his simpler version of the Prince Nymph tied on a curved hook. Many years ago, Jeremy had a link to a plethora of flies that he put together for the Bow River. That link no longer exists…however, I wrote all the recipes down…I now know why I did that…

ICE WEEVIL

HOOK: TMC 2457, Daiichi 1120, Mustad CO68 or other scud hook, # 12 – # 18

THREAD: UNI 8/0 Olive or Gordon Griffiths 14/0, Olive

TAIL: Pheasant Tail Fibers, Olive

RIB: Chart. or Metallic Green Wapsi wire

ABDOMEN: Caddis Green Ice Dub

THORAX: Olive/Brown SLF Prism

OVER ABDOMEN 1.: Optional, Pearl mylar or Black Krystal Flash

OVER ABDOMEN/WING CASE 2.: Olive Thin Skin or Scud Back

WINGS: Brown Goose Biots

BEAD: Copper or Gold

Some minor tweaking on Jeremy Davies’ venerable “EVIL WEEVIL” series.This is a flashy tie for early Spring and high, cloudy water…

BLACK WEEVIL (TOP VIEW)

BLACK WEEVIL

HOOK: TMC 2457, Daiichi 1120, Mustad CO68, # 12 – # 18

THREAD: UNI 8/0 Black or Gordon Griffiths 14/0, Black

TAIL: Black Rabbit, long hairs cut from mask, underfur combed out

RIB: Silver wire or Silver Mylar tinsel

ABDOMEN: Hare’s Mask ,#4

OVER ABDOMEN 1.: Pearl Mylar

OVER ABDOMEN 2.: Clear Scud Back

THORAX: Black Ice Dub

WINGCASE: Clear Scud Back

WINGS: White Goose Biots

BEAD: Black Tungsten or Black with non toxic lead wraps

Another tweak on the “EVIL WEEVIL”, fished deep, in the Spring, where and when Stone Flies are present and moving towards shore…

HOT GO 2 PRINCE

HOOK: TMC 5262, #12 – # 18

THREAD: Uni 8/0 Black or Gordon Griffiths 14/0, Black

TAIL: Ginger Furnace Hen Hackles

RIB: Metallic Red Wapsi wire

ABDOMEN/THORAX: Peacock Herl

WING: White Zelon

HACKLE: Ginger Furnace Hen

BEAD: Spirit River, Hot Orange

A combo soft hackle, combo meaning that designs from Rick Takahashi and “Pop” from “Let it Fly “in Pagosa Springs, CO influenced the final tie…This one will get a work out on the East Walker and Lower Owens..Michael gets to try it first ( then just let me try to pry the box out of his vest – good luck)…

EVIL WEEVIL

HOOK: TMC 2457, Daiichi 1120, Mustad CO68,or other scud hook, # 12 – # 18

THREAD: Uni 8/0 Black or Gordon Griffith 14/0, Black

TAIL: Pheasant Tail Fibers, Natural

OVER ABDOMEN/ OVER THORAX: Olive Scud Back or Thin Skin

RIB: Gold or Copper wire

ABDOMEN: Hare’s Mask, Olive # 3

THORAX: Peacock SLF PRISM

WINGS: Rusty Brown Goose Biots

BEAD: Gold or Copper, Tungsten or Brass

Another “Evil Weevil”…as one can see, numerous variations and possibilities…this is a good early Spring pattern…

NEU COWDUNG AMBER

HOOK: Alec Jackson, North Country, # 13 & # 15

THREAD: Gordon Griffiths 14/0, Brown

ABDOMEN/THORAX: Amber Hareline Krystal Dubbing

WING: Amber Zelon

HACKLE: Natural Partridge

BEAD: Glass Bead, Metallic

NEU COWDUNG OLIVE

HOOK: Alec Jackson, North Country, # 13 & # 15

THREAD: Gordon Griffiths, 14/0, Olive

ABDOMEN/THORAX: Olive Krystal Dubbing

WING: Grey Sparkle Emerger Yarn

HACKLE: Hen neck, brown

BEAD: Glass Bead, Metallic

Both the above flies are Wiese soft hackle Caddis imitations meant to be swung in the current with a lift and drop at the terminus of the swing. I particularly like to use this method on the Stillwater and Madison Rivers in Montana in the evening during hatches of the respective species these colors imitate…

I would be remiss if I did not put up this pattern. It was the first nymph that I tied out on the water, on the Madison River at Valley Gardens in August 1975, not the best time to be FF down in the channels section above Ennis Lake. This fly appeared in Fly Fishing Magazine in early 1975. It is called the “Mink Thing”…I have tied it on a wide variety of hooks with beads and without – with hackle and without. I have mixed sable into the blend. I still use this pattern in shades ranging from light tan to dark brown. The mink ( and sable) retain air bubbles which adds to the effectiveness of the fly…no Frogs Fanny needed!!! I weight the body of the fly heavily…it is one of the BEST early Spring, cold water imitations I have ever used…

“Mink Thing” at Valley Gardens on the Madison River 1975…

It is right here, in this Nymph box, that I still use…

I have a few more that I am working on that will be posted soon…

PT/TB

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BUBBLE BUTT PUPA…

This is a pattern developed by anglers who fish the Gunnison Gorge. It is tied here by Gale Doudy. It is an alternative to John Barr’s (Graphic Caddis ) Caddis Pupa pattern and fishes extremely well -tied in Green for Spring and in Tan for Fall. Gale also has tutorials on some other interesting patterns…check it out!!!

PT/TB

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Mother’s Day…BUG…Caddis

Here is a simple Caddis (Brachycentrus ) pattern to match the Mother’s Day hatch from LoJ’s Flytying and Bugstuff… some great patterns there….

The tying instructions are on his BLOG…

And, this is a SwittersB take ( utilizing Lime Pearl Core Braid) that may be fished lower in the water column…*( click on link for properly sized photo and description)

PT/TB

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A Midge, Two Stones and Caddis…

The BWO’s/Baetis instructions are finished. They may be found below (on the following page)…Good tying!!!

Hot Spot Midge:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s , Black 14/0

Hook: TMC 2487, Daiichi 1130, #18-22

Abdomen: Wapsi Ultra 70, Black

Rib: X-Fine Largutan wire, Gold or Copper

Shuck: Pearl Krystal Flash

Thorax: Danville 6/0 Fl. Orange Thread – (coat with Aquaflex)

Bead: Copper or Gold

I tied these up to create a ” pop” rather than using the standard Tiger or Zebra Midge for the Owens and East Walker Rivers…Nice!!!

Holo Stone Golden:

Hook: Daiichi 1270 or TMC 200R , #12-16

Thread: Black or Yellow 8/0

Bead: Black or Gold

Tail: Black or Tan mini Tarantu-Leggs

Abdomen: Black or Gold small Wapsi Holo-Tinsel

RIB: Gold or Copper/Brown wire, sized to hook

Thorax: Black or Gold Ice Dub

Wingcase: Black or Gold small Wapsi Holo-Tinsel

Hackle: Speckled Brown Hen

Holo Stone Black:

A Joe Egry patten that appeared in Southwest Fly Fishing. A good fly for edges on The East Fork of the Carson, West Walker River ( canyon section) and the Mighty Kern, It may be fished under a stimulator as a dropper.

Amber IRIS Caddis:

Hook: TMC 100 or any other equivalent dry fly hook # 14-#16

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0 Tan or Brown

Shuck: Gold Zelon, ( in this case, I used crinkly Dun Zelon)

Body: Combo Natures Spirit Tan and Rusty Brown Emergence Dub

Wing: Gray Antron yarn, semi circle extending to hook bend

Head: Natures Spirit Dk. Brown Hare’s Ear Emerger Dub

The classic Craig Matthews – John Juracek, Caddis pattern. I have used this fly successfully, in other color variations , almost everywhere. I especially like it in the evening on the Madison River…

Craig Matthews ties the Amber Iris Caddis VIDEO… 6.18.10

Amber Z Underwing Caddis:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0 Brown

Hook: TMC 900BL, #14-#18

Shuck: Amber Zelon, twisted

Body: Davy Wotton SLF, Amber

Underwing: Crinkly Zelon, Brown

Overwing: Coastal Deer Hair

A take off on a Wayne Luallen pattern using deer hair instead of CDC (which sometimes drives me crazy on the water). I like fishing this pattern through slower water along stream banks. I tie it in a number of color variations and really like the SLF dubbing Davy Wotton created… I use a dab of Hydrophobe -( available from Blue Ribbon Flies) under the two wings…

Antron Caddis Pupa:

Hook: TMC 206 BL or other fine wire scud hook #10-#18

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0, Brown

Bubble Sheath: Tan or Cream Antron Dubbing

Abdomen: Green Jelly Rope or Larva Lace

Legs: Natural CDC Fibers

Wing: Brown Antron Yarn

Head: Dk. Brown Dubbing

A Jim Schollmeyer pattern. I use this on the East Walker and Owens Rivers as an alternative to the La Fontaine Sparkle pupa. It works great on a Liesenring Lift!

Bubble Bak Caddis:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0 Black

Bead: Gold

Underbody: Caddis Green Ice Dub

Rib: X-SM Chart wire

Bubble Sheath: Olive Zelon

Wing: Brown Antron

Thorax: Black Ostrich Herl

I tie this fly in tan and amber using the appropriate colors. I fish it deep with weight and pick up many hits as it swings in the current downstream…

CDC Black Caddis:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0, Black

Hook: TMC 100 or Daiichi 1100, # 18-#20

Shuck: Dun Zelon, twisted

Body: Black Fine and Dry

Wing: Black CDC, clipped

Thorax: Black Ice Dub

A good Glossosoma imitation I use when the shadows hit the water on the East Walker and a great pattern for the small Black Caddis on the Madison…

Glass House Caddis:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0, Olive

Hook: TMC 5262, # 14-#18

Beads: One Black Metal followed by Olive Glass Bead

Rib: Largutan extra fine copper

Body/Case: Scintilla # 46, Peacockle

Hackle: Brown or Furnace Hen

Scott Sanchez’s fine imitation of the Brachycentrus Caddis Pupa that one finds in abundance on the Owens. These are the ” stick” Caddis one finds throughout that tailwater. This pattern is a Trout magnet…

Olive IRIS Caddis:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0, Olive

Hook: TMC 100 or Daiichi 1100, #14-#18

Shuck: Dun Zelon, crinkly

Body: Natures Spirit Caddis Green Emerger Dub

Wing: Olive Antron Yarn, semi-circle to bend

Head: Buggy Nymph, Dk. Hare’s Ear Dub

Craig Matthew’s Caddis pattern. I carry it in each hook size after learning about it’s fish catching prowess on the Madison and Stillwater Rivers. This fly accounted for some wonderful late evening action at Cliff Swallows on the Stillwater – I caught the largest Brown I have taken on that River with this fly at that spot…

LF Sparkle Emerger Pupa:

I am going to devote an entire story to the proper preparation of materials required to tie this fly and enhance it’s effectiveness… the store bought creations of this pattern don’t come close to the original intent of it’s creator – Gary LaFontaine. This fly as a emerger, and in the deep sparkle version, should be included in any fly fisherman’s arsenal. For me, it is one of the best Caddis patterns I have ever used…

Matthew’s X-Caddis Olive:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0, Olive

Hook: TMC 102Y, #13-#19

Shuck: Dun or Amber Zelon-(may be twisted)

Body: Stalcup’s BWO Micro Dub, Olive

Wing: Coastal Deer Hair

Another “go-to” pattern developed by Craig Matthews. I would venture to the water witout it. I tie most of them now with a twisted Zelon shuck…

Olive CDC Caddis:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0, Olive

Hook: TMC 100 or Daiichi 1100, #14-#18

Shuck: Olive Zelon, twisted

Body: Mix, Olive Antron and Olive Buggy Nymph, chopped

Wing: Natural CDC, clipped

Head: Arizona Dub, Hare’s Ear

A good slow water pattern I employ along banks on the Owens, East Walker and Madison Rivers. Tied in Brown, size #18, it slams ’em on Hot Creek…

SnoShu Black Caddis:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0, Black

Hook: TMC 900BL, #18-#20

Body: Stalcup’s Micro Dub, Black

Wing: Black Snow Shoe Hair, clipped at an angle

Another Glossosoma imitation that floats like a cork and brings ’em up when little black Caddis are emerging…

Sparkle Caddis Olive:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0, Black

Hook: TMC 206 BL, #14-#18

Body: Natures Spirit Caddis Green Emerger Dub

Wings: Dun Zelon

Head: Arizona Dk. Hare’s Ear Dub

Legs: Brown Partridge

Antennae: Olive Mallard Flank

A great sub -surface Caddis emerger I tie in various colors. I sometime trail this behind a Goddard or Elk Hair Caddis. I usually get the take on this fly…

U-Con 2 Caddis Emerger:

Hook: TMC 900BL, #14-#20

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0, Gray

Taik/ Shuck: Amber or Dun Zelon

Body: Dark Olive Dubbing

Overbody: Dark Olive Zelon

Thorax: Silver Glass Bead

Wing: Coastal Deer Hair

A Howard Cole design. A good surface film fly for slow water that has the added attraction of the glass bead. I have caught some nice Browns on this fly on the East Walker in the wanning light…

Z – Wing Caddis Amber:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0, Tan

Hook: TMC 2457 or Daiichi 1120, #12-#18

Body: Tan Buggy Nymph mixed with Davy Wotan Amber SLF Dub

Overbody: Two strips of dark mottled turkey tail

Rib: Copper/ Brown wire

Wing: Ginger Zelon

Head: Davy Woton Amber SLF

A Mike Mercer pattern I started using on the Stillwater River, in tan, several years ago. After I tied some up, the Amber version proved to be much more productive. I keep my boxes supplied with these in Olive, Dark Brown, Amber and Tan in all sizes. Fished from the bottom of the water column to subsurface they have picked of a “fair” amount of Trout and yeah…Whitefish…

Z – Wing Caddis Amber – top view:

Sparkle Caddis, Tan:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0, Tan or Brown

Hook; TMC 206BL, #14-#18

Body: Natures Spirit Tan Emerger Dub

Wings: Dun or Brown Zelon

Head: Natures Spirit Brown Emerger Dub

Kegs: Optional – Brown Partridge

Antennae: Dyed Wooduck Mallard Flank

The Tan version of the above Olive. I also tie this in Amber, Gray and Brown. I usually use it as a trailer…

Owens Emerger Caddis Pupa, Olive:

Thread: Gordon Griffith’s 14/0 Olive or Brown

Hook: TMC 206BL, #14-#18

Overbody/Shuck: Olive Zelon, clipped short

Rib: Chart Wire

Legs: Brown Partridge

Head: Arizona Peacock Dub

I use this pattern rolled on the bottom to sub surface. It incoporates some of the aspects of the Z-Wing . I like to use this fly as a dropper, off the IRIS Caddis, in smaller sizes, in slow moving water…

More to come, March Browns, Grey Drakes, Green Drakes…

PT/TB

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